Drenched in tropical ocean waters, I pulled off my wetsuit and took my place laying out in the warm Caribbean sun on a large bean bag chair. I had just gotten back on the boat after scuba diving with the largest amount of sharks I have ever seen at a single dive site. Feeling the steady rock of the waves and the light breeze through my hair, I knew this was paradise. This is only a snippet of my incredible experience on my very first live-aboard boat scuba diving the Bahamas.
As someone who has been scuba diving from a relatively young age (I was fortunate enough to get certified in my early teens with my dad being a dive instructor), I base a lot of my travel around dive experiences. So when the opportunity arose to try living on a boat for a week in the Bahamas to scuba dive all day every day, I was all in. A pirate’s life for me!
Read on to see what to expect living on a budget live aboard dive boat and how you can do it, too!
(Disclaimer: This post is NOT sponsored by Allstar Liveaboards or Blackbeard’s Cruises. I am not earning a commission from Allstar Liveaboards. This post is entirely about sharing my experience with Blackbeard’s Cruises and scuba diving in the Bahamas. Some of the products mentioned in this post do contain affiliate links. While I am not paid to promote these products, if you choose to purchase any of the products through the links in this post, I may receive a small portion of the sale. Any products mentioned in this post are products I personally use and recommend. I will never recommend products I have not personally used or do not think are useful.)
Day One
The week started on an early flight to Nassau, the capital of the Bahamas. After landing on the island and getting through customs, we were greeted by our van driver. After my initial panic, I learned that in the Bahamas, cars drive on the left side of the road – quite the change from what I’m accustomed to in the United States.
As we arrived at the marina, I scanned over the boats looking for Blackbeard’s Cruises, the live-aboard dive company I had booked my trip with. Towards the end of the dock, I found my home for the next week.
This is the moment where I began to feel a little uneasy. How are we all supposed to live on this little boat for a week? Won’t we be cramped? I’m going to be so seasick. Please don’t let me puke on this trip. My mind was racing.
Yes, I get motion sickness and I volunteered to live on a boat for a week. I wasn’t going to let a little nausea stop me from enjoying what should be an incredible experience!
As I boarded the dive boat with my suitcase, I checked in with the crew. They scanned the list and assigned me my bunk below deck. I pulled out all my dive gear and found the tank with my name on it. Here, I assembled my equipment before heading down the ladder to my bunk to unpack the rest of my luggage. What I enjoyed about this trip is once your gear is set up, you’re set for the week as they just refill the same tank with your gear on.
There isn’t enough room to keep suitcases on the boat, so I took everything out of my suitcase and stashed it on a little shelf at the end of my bed. It was in this moment that I was so grateful for my packing cubes, which helped keep everything organized and together throughout the trip (mostly).
As I put everything away, my fears began to turn to reality. I felt incredibly nauseous and needed to head above deck. How am I supposed to last a whole week like this? I pulled out my dramamine I had brought and hoped for the best. Luckily, we were still docked at this point and I could enjoy some final moments on steady land before we departed for our weeklong adventure.
After getting back on the boat and feeling a little better, the captain began his (not so brief) briefing as we departed into the tropical Caribbean waters. We were told the overall plan for the trip, how daily life on the boat goes, some general rules for the boat, and what to do if you get seasick (which I was desperately hoping not to do). It was mid-afternoon at this point and we had time for one dive before sunset to get our feet (or fins?) wet and start off the trip.
When we arrived at our dive site, the previously tired and overheated passengers quickly became full of energy as we all put on our wetsuits and made sure our gear was ready. We received another briefing about the dive site we were about to explore and what to expect. It was a relatively shallow dive, only reaching about 20 feet deep.
Once given the okay, I eagerly took a giant stride off the boat into the water. In that moment all of my anxiety and nausea disappeared. With my dive buddy now in the water with me, we began to descend and take in the beautiful coral scenery through crystal-clear waters. This is peace.
This was different from my previous dive experiences as there was no Dive Master guiding the way. We were free to (and responsible for) exploring dive sites on our own. I really liked this aspect of scuba diving the Bahamas as it meant I could go at my own pace and go to areas I wanted to explore rather than have to follow a group. As the sun began to set, I witnessed the change in wildlife. I watched as creatures that are more prominent during the day became tucked away, and the nocturnal animals began to emerge from the reef.
After the dive ended and everyone had changed into dry clothes, the dinner bell rang. I was starving at this point, so I rushed down to the galley where everyone had formed a crowded line to get food. I’m embarrassed to admit that I don’t remember what the first meal we had was, but all the food served on the trip was delicious. Throughout the week I stuffed my face with delicious steak, fish, pasta, salads, wraps, and various desserts. There was no shortage of food, with three meals and two snacks provided per day. After dinner, the crew brought out the “night drink”, which consists of a large container of rum punch. We spent the evening socializing and getting to know our fellow passengers, but most of us were asleep by 9 as it had been a long day for us all.
Day Two
Around 6:30 in the morning, I woke up to the sound of knocking on the bathroom door. Everyone was beginning to wake up, and while I’m normally groggy at this hour, I jumped out of my bunk in excitement for the day. Okay, I was on the top bunk so I didn’t jump, per say, more of a not-so-steady climb, but you get the picture. I was surprised with how well I had slept given the tight quarters, but the steady rocking that was once my foe turned out to be quite relaxing at night. Making my way up the ladder to the gorgeous view of the sun rising over the Caribbean Sea, I smelled the fresh ocean air. I wish I could wake up like this every single day.
I made a beeline for the galley and filled my mug with fresh hot coffee, sipping it while I enjoyed the scenery on the deck. Around 7:30 a.m., the breakfast bell rang. Every morning, there was a wide variety of breakfast options, including eggs, oatmeal, pancakes, and bacon or sausage. After everyone had eaten, we prepared for our first full day of diving.
Grabbing my wetsuit that I had clipped onto the side of the boat, I began to assemble my dive gear. After getting briefed on the dive site, we were quick to dive into the water. If I wasn’t awake before, I sure was now. Honestly, the first dive of the day wasn’t too exciting, but it was still nice to get a start on the day of diving. Afterward, we dried off a bit, and I was excited to see that the cook had brought us some freshly cut fruit. This would become a staple snack throughout the week.
I really enjoyed the second dive of the day, which took place at the Blue Hole. As the name implies, this site consisted of a large, deep blue hole in the ocean floor. As I approached the Blue Hole underwater, I was a little taken back by how uneasy I felt, just looking down at a sort of abyss in the ocean. Not being able to see the bottom and just floating in blue is mildly disorienting. Luckily, you can easily see the edge of the hole and make your way out. I really had to keep a close eye on my depth during this dive, as I quickly sank to 80 feet without even realizing it.
Despite all this, I enjoyed experiencing something different, as I had never been diving in a blue hole anywhere else. I also got the pleasure of seeing three blacktip reef sharks and a nurse shark who seemed to frequent the depths of this dive site.
Following the first two dives, we had a long break to eat some lunch and relax for a bit. At this moment I decided to follow the lead of some of the others on the boat and lay out in the sun (but not without lathering myself in some reef-safe sunscreen first!). I took this opportunity to get to know some of the other passengers on the boat, as well. Little did I know I would end up making lifelong diving friends by the end of the trip!
After the much-enjoyed break, we got in the water again for our third dive of the day. At this point, the sun was beginning to set again. This dive was more shallow than the previous dives. We were able to see a LOT of lobsters out in the open as well as barracuda.
Following the dive, the crew encouraged passengers to grab their snorkeling gear and get in the water again. They were going to try to spearfish lobster. I learned that early morning and evenings are the best time to try to spear the lobsters. We weren’t allowed to spearfish any lobster while scuba diving in the Bahamas, so those who wanted to participate had to free dive to get the lobster, which I think is fair. The hope was that enough lobster could be speared throughout the week for everyone to have a lobster dinner by the end of the trip. Yum!
I didn’t participate in the spearfishing as I was cold and tired at this point (plus, I know I wouldn’t be able to do it once I saw the lobster’s face). I watched as some of the other passengers got in the water to try. Our boat ended up with three lobsters from this first go at it!
After dinner, I was cold and didn’t feel like getting back in the water, but this was the first night dive of the trip. Therefore, I forced myself to go. Once in the water, I was so happy I did. During this dive, I was able to see a rather large sting ray as well as a huge lobster walking around the ocean floor, something that would be rare to find during the day.
This dive was not without its challenges, though, as we definitely took for granted the natural navigation that was available during the daytime. My group and I ended up getting lost briefly, swimming out much farther than we had thought. The crew had told us about “the dingy of shame” prior to the dive, which was a smaller motor boat they would send out to anyone that happened to go too far or get lost while diving. We were determined not to be those people, so I got quite the workout in at the end of this dive. But we made it back!
At the end of the dive, I was exhausted and just ready to shower and put warm, dry clothes on. Let me tell you about the boat showers, though. Due to the amount of time it takes to make fresh water for the showers, each passenger was limited to 30 SECONDS of shower time. There’s no way I can take a shower in 30 seconds, I thought to myself. Oh, but I did, with a very strategic system. I turned the water on and off again throughout the shower, only using it when absolutely necessary.
This aspect of the trip gave me a whole new insight into the privileges I am used to back home where I never have to think about how much clean, running water I have. But I know that this isn’t the same reality others have throughout the world, and I am a lot more appreciative and conscientious now of this luxury.
Following my short-lived cleanse, I doused my hair in some leave-in conditioner, which I was so thankful to have brought with me. I have unruly, tangled hair on dry land, so you can imagine what it looks like after 4 dives in saltwater and the wind constantly blowing through it. The kind I brought worked really well, and I didn’t struggle to brush my hair as I normally do after a dive.
And once again, I ended the night with some rum punch and enjoyed the company of my newfound friends.
Day Three
The third day began similarly to day two. Our first dive took place at Dog Rocks Wall, which was a large wall of coral abundant with life. I always find coral walls to be some of my favorite dives, as the sheer size of these coral formations is just so striking. There’s also a good combination of bigger pelagic species combined with the smaller reef critters. Many walls have swim-throughs to enjoy as well.
During this dive, we had the amazing opportunity to free a nurse shark caught in some fishing line. At first glance, it seemed like the shark was just resting on the bottom of the ocean floor. As we got closer, however, we realized it couldn’t move anywhere. Luckily, nurse sharks aren’t an aggressive species, so we were able to unhook the shark. This most likely saved its life as it wouldn’t have been able to hunt for food.
During the second dive of the day, I had the opportunity to see three more reef sharks at a dive site called “crab mountain”. One of my favorite things about scuba diving the Bahamas is the sheer number of sharks you have the opportunity to see. Following the second dive, we ate lunch and enjoyed another midday break. For the third dive of the day, we finished in another shallow site where we found lots of lobsters again. We were able to get another lobster, but our luck with a lobster dinner was dwindling.
I opted out of the night dive this day. I must say that trying to find the will to jump back in the water with a full stomach is quite challenging. While the option was available, everyone chose not to do the night dive this day.
I will never get over the consistently incredible views throughout the trip. The sunsets were beautiful every evening, and I spent my nights stargazing with the other passengers. What a wonderful world we live in. In this moment I realized I don’t appreciate the beauty of nature nearly as much as I should.
Day Four
Day four of the trip was arguably my favorite day of the whole trip. The first dive of the day was Blacktip Wall. While the dive was beautiful, there wasn’t anything in particular that stood out about it. It was after the dive that really made an impact on me. While sailing to the next dive site, our boat came across several pods of pilot whales. Everyone rushed to the edge of the boat, with the entire group becoming silent. We stared in awe watching these gentle creatures swim so majestically through the waves. Our boat spent around a half hour just marveling at the whales, moving to different areas of the boat as multiple different pods approached us. We must have made them curious, too!
Following this incredible experience, I got to enjoy my favorite dive of the trip at Austin Smith Wreck. I am a huge fan of sharks, and this site did not disappoint me. During this dive in the Bahamas, I saw the most sharks I had ever seen on a single dive. I marveled at nurse sharks and blacktip reef sharks. While I was really hoping to see a hammerhead on this trip, I was still incredibly pleased with the experience I had during this dive.
I know there’s a lot of people out there that are afraid of sharks, and I’m sure some of you reading this are, too. Honestly, though, what Hollywood movies portray (*ahem*, Jaws) about sharks is not what I experience when actually in the water with these fascinating creatures. My heart was beating not out of fear but out of excitement. I watched in amazement as the sharks gracefully swam by.
After this thrilling dive, we headed to a nearby deserted beach to relax and enjoy our first time on dry land in several days. I experienced a dingy for the first time, nearly falling in the water with my towel I had brought in my attempts to step on the small boat.
Stepping on the beach, I was immediately off-balance. I guess I had gotten so used to the rocking of the boat that I felt like I was rocking even on land. The beach was a much-needed break, though. It was nice being able to walk more than a few feet away without being dropped in the middle of the ocean. This was not the time to be dry, however, as I grabbed my mask and snorkel and enjoyed some time exploring the shallow reefs right off the beach.
As you can tell by the picture, the water was incredibly clear. The views on the island felt like I was in a dream. Would it be wrong to just stay here and live the rest of my life like this?
After about an hour, the time came to get back on the boat. Oddly enough, I was happy to get back on our little rocking home. I must be getting used to the sailing life.
In the evening, we jumped back in the water for our third dive of the day. This dive site was called “Madison Avenue”, and here I was graced with the sight of a sea turtle!
I’ve been blessed to have seen a great number of sea turtles throughout my many years of diving, including in Hawaii and Cozumel, but I never seem to get over the excitement and awe whenever I see a sea turtle. They are just so peaceful and beautiful, you can’t help but to be mesmerized.
Day Five
On day five, I had the pleasure of making friends with a peculiar fish. It was the second dive of the day, and the dive site was called “lobster or no lobster”. The name was coined by Jacques Cousteau after he dove this site in the Bahamas on multiple occasions and either saw a ton of lobsters or none at all. That day must have been a no lobster day, as we didn’t see any during the dive. I did, however, come upon a rather large cowfish while taking a video of a much smaller cowfish. Actually, the cowfish came upon me, as when I looked up from my camera, it was right in my face.
The cowfish began following me around the reef, and I could not stop laughing. My mask kept flooding from how much I was laughing, and I kept having to stop to clear the water. The cowfish must have been as curious about me as I was about it, as it came up directly to my GoPro and touched its face to my mask. At one point it was even sitting in my lap! After over ten years of diving, I can honestly say I have never experienced something like this. The cowfish did not leave me for several minutes, and was still swimming near me when it was time to surface. I wish I could have brought it home with me!
The dive after this was also memorable, though not as hilarious. The next site was Barracuda Shoals, where (naturally) I saw barracuda, a moray eel, two sting rays, and three sharks swimming around the boat. Once again, I found myself staring in awe as the sharks swam by. I will forever be fascinated by these creatures, and wish they weren’t so misunderstood.
After the three dives, our boat made its way over to the sands of Iguana Beach, a deserted island in the Bahamas that had iguanas for residents rather than people. From afar, it almost looked as if the island were overrun by small dogs.
Apparently, people used to come to this island and feed grapes to the iguanas. New restrictions make it against the rules to feed the iguanas, but they still expect grapes from visitors. We learned that anyone with painted toenails, specifically red or purple, were a target for the iguanas as they were perceived as grapes. The iguanas were harmless, but this definitely led to some laughs as the lizards (not so stealthily) attempted to eat women’s toes.
For dinner, we did not have enough speared lobsters at this point in the week for everyone to enjoy a lobster tail for dinner, but there was enough for a delicious lobster bisque that we enjoyed along with some steak and vegetables. We truly were spoiled that evening!
Being the last full day of diving, I decided to do the night dive this time. I am so glad I did. The dive took place at Smuggler’s Plane, a dive site with a wrecked plane.
The crew of the boat claimed there was a resident octopus living on this site, so I was determined to find it! As we sank below the surface and made our way over to the plane, I scanned around. I found a sting ray hiding under a wing, an eel that I must have scared off, and multiple little crabs. Still no octopus.
After nearly giving up, I came upon a smaller piece of wreckage away from the rest of the plane. I looked under, not having high hopes at this point. Tucked away in the back, I saw something shiny. It was an eye! And the eye belonged to the octopus! It didn’t come out into the open, but I was able to admire it as it stayed nestled in its hideout. In this picture, you can see its little head underneath the wreckage.
Day Six
Day six was our last day of scuba diving the Bahamas. The plan was to get a couple of dives in and head back to the marina. I only did one dive this day, as it was a little colder and windier than the previous days. Truthfully, I was tired of being wet and cold by this point in the trip. The last dive was a fun little dive, though, as I saw two large puffer fish, a sting ray, and some lion fish. I savored my final moments of underwater bliss in the Caribbean Sea.
I know lionfish are an invasive species in the Caribbean, but they’re so beautiful to look at.
After others on the boat finished their second and final dive of the day, it was windy enough that the crew was able to put the sails of the boat up as we headed back to the marina. Now we’re pirates!
I won’t say I was excited to be heading back, but I was definitely looking forward to taking a real shower for the first time in a week!
During our voyage back to land, we squared up with the crew, giving our gratuities as well as purchasing any souvenir shirts or hats we wanted to remember the trip by. If you are planning on doing a trip like this, know it is generally expected to give the crew a 10-20% tip at the end of the week.
Making it back to the marina, I headed straight for the showers. It felt incredible to take a shower lasting more than 30 seconds, scrubbing away all the gunk I’m sure I accumulated during our adventures.
I put on fresh, dry clothes and prepared for our night out, known as “port night”. Essentially, all the passengers and crew go into town and enjoy a final night together. We spent the evening dancing to music and enjoying some drinks at the bar. This was definitely a great opportunity to socialize with newfound friends and exchange contact information. Prior to this trip, I had no friends that were scuba divers, so it was exciting to finally meet an incredible group of women that I would totally take a diving trip with in the future.
Keep in mind that for going into town, you will need $10 cash for the bus fare to and from the bar. Bring a credit card for the bar as it is card-only.
Day Seven
The final and saddest day. I packed my things and prepared for the 9 am shuttle to pick us up from the marina. In the morning, the women of the boat all made our way over to Starbucks to enjoy some coffee together before saying our goodbyes. I thanked the crew for the wonderful week. As 9 am came, I hugged my fellow boat mates and boarded the shuttle back to the airport.
Overall, I had an amazing week and was inspired to do another live aboard in the future. I think it is an excellent way to see dive sites you would never normally see on a day trip, as well as experience a different way of life you don’t get at a hotel. You get to meet new people and truly feel as if you are on an adventure.
How You Can Partake in this Adventure
If you are interested in scuba diving the Bahamas on Blackbeard’s Liveaboards, this post sums up what you can expect during your week. This tour group is definitely more budget-friendly than most other live aboards out there. The all-inclusive price for the week, including dives, food, and both non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverages is $1065 per person in addition to $205 in fees. Note that in 2024, the price will increase to $1095 per person. Comparatively, that is hundreds to thousands of dollars cheaper than other live aboards.
Being that it is cheaper, however, know to expect a very “low frills” environment, as the website clearly states. The company describes the trip as “camping at sea”, and I couldn’t agree more. Don’t take this trip if you are expecting a luxury cruise with ample room (and ample shower time). The cabins were very tight, and everyone slept in bunks in which you could not sit up straight in. For most of the trip, you are sitting on the deck of the boat with all of the other passengers. I find this aspect of the trip charming and adventurous, but many others would not agree. So keep this in mind if you’re thinking about booking a week on Blackbeard’s Cruises. If you’re on a budget and don’t mind a low-frills week filled with great diving, though, then this trip is for you!
In terms of what to pack, don’t go crazy. You don’t need that flat iron or five different pairs of shoes. You will essentially be living in a swimsuit and sandals for the week. If you have your own dive gear, pack it. If not, there is equipment available for rent. If you have no dive gear of your own, expect to spend an extra $240 for the week. If you have a GoPro or other underwater camera, bring it! There are plenty of amazing photo opportunities on this trip.
Bring a few swimsuits, some comfortable shorts and tank tops/tees you don’t mind getting wet. I would recommend packing a hoodie or jacket as it tends to get chilly at night. You’ll want something a little nicer to wear for port night, but it doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Pack some comfortable sandals, a hat or two, and a pair of sunglasses.
In addition, bring plenty of reef-safe sunscreen, as only half the boat is covered by a canopy. With 20 other guests, it can be hard to get an open seat in this area. Being a mineral sunscreen, there is a bit of a white sheen if you don’t rub it in super well, but ultimately the goal is to prevent sunburn while avoiding destroying the very reefs that you are enjoying.
In hindsight, I wish I would have brought a seat cushion, as honestly I was pretty sore by the end of the week from sitting on the hard seats on deck. You’ll also want to bring a couple of towels. There aren’t any towels provided on the boat, and it’s nice to rotate between a couple as you let one dry out in the sun. I brought lightweight towels so they would dry more quickly. While there are clips on the boat, it can be helpful to bring your own heavy-duty clips for your towels, wet suit, and swimsuits to dry along the lines at the edges of the boat.
Definitely bring leave-in conditioner, as your hair will definitely need it during the trip. I used Stream 2 Sea’s Leave-in Conditioner, which did an amazing job taming my tangled, dried-out locks. I also discovered squalene oil on this trip from fellow passengers, and it left my skin and hair feeling incredibly soft and moisturized. This kind by Stream2Sea is plant-based, unlike some of the other brands which use sharks as ingredients.
Bring cash for tips, the bus fare, and any souvenirs you may wish to purchase. Additionally, bring a credit card for port night and anything you wish to buy at the shopping plaza across from the marina when docked. I would also recommend bringing a dry bag for all the items you don’t want to get wet on deck. Under the seats are little cubbies where you can put dive gear or anything else you want. Before my dives I would put extra things in my dry bag and stash it in the cubby. This can include your hat, sunglasses, clothes worn over a swimsuit, or a phone.
Never been diving before or hoping to get more certifications? You can do that with Blackbeard’s! There was a passenger on our boat who had never been diving before in his life. He learned to dive on this trip, and was even able to get certified! There’s something on these dives for every experience level, and honestly most of the dives were less than 40 feet. None of the dives we did were drift dives, making this trip excellent for beginners.
That’s not to say the trip can’t be fun for more advanced divers, though. I have been diving for many years and have my advanced open water certification. While not the most challenging dives I’ve done, I still had a great time! To learn more about Blackbeard’s dive certifications on the boat, click here.
To book your trip and begin your adventure scuba diving the Bahamas, head to the AllStar Liveaboards website. Click “Book Now” to check availability and begin your booking. I would recommend booking far in advance as these trips tend to fill up quickly. Both single and double bunks are available, with couples receiving priority for double bunks.
The boat departs on Saturdays by 3:00 p.m. from Nassau, with boarding beginning at noon. Passengers then return to the airport at 9:00 a.m. on Friday. You are able to coordinate ground transportation to and from the airport through Blackbeard’s Cruises.
Overall, this trip is great for adventurers on a budget who like to explore off the beaten path. Whether you’re traveling solo or with a group, there is a place for you on the boat. You will make friendships and memories that will last a lifetime. If you’ve never been on a liveaboard, or even scuba diving at all, I encourage you to give it a try!